Anyone who faithfully follows Fashion Month may have noticed one name being conspicuously absent: Jeremy Scott. "This is the first time in 27 years that I haven't had a show in September, either for myself or for other brands," the designer tells Bustle.
Although the downtime made him uneasy at first, he knew he deserved a break. "I was like, 'You know what, asshole? You worked hard. You could cancel a season," he said, adding, "Maybe it would be good for people to miss it for a minute."
People certainly will. Scott has been at the helm of Moschino for a decade, responsible for some of the brand's most buzzy fashion shows. Examples include the SpongeBob SquarePants collection (Fall 2014), Barbie (Spring 2015) and a collection that pays homage to gorgeous homewares (Fall 2022). He also hosts shows for his equally whimsical label of the same name.
While he's not showing a collection this season, he's definitely been busy. On September 9, Scott received the Fashion Visionary Award from Daily Front Row , where he helped spotlight young designers by hosting the 16th annual Supima Design Competition for students across the country during New York Fashion Week.
"I've always really wanted to try and help young designers, like with the Making the Cut show, and try to provide a platform in that way," he said.
Next, Scott discusses his most iconic Met Gala looks, his muse Gigi Hadid, and the best advice he's ever received from Madonna.
You've styled over 50 Met Gala looks. Can you rank your top three?
Katy Perry and the chandelier are its own stars, otherworldly things. That's definitely a favorite. I would be remiss if I didn’t think of Madonna. It was such an honor to date her twice. For the first time, Katie, she and I actually matched up for this doodling moment. That would be my other favorite thing.
Which Met Gala look has the most surprising backstory?
I made this dress with Iris Law. I did this in my own collection years ago, covering the feathers with pieces of lace, and that's how I created her gown. It was a really nice moment to go back to my own archives and do something new.
This is one of my favorite dresses and it's actually on display at Kensington Palace in the UK right now.
I want to talk about Bella Hadid's Met Gala dress with the huge cutout at the hip.
I wanted to do something that really captured the drama of her natural physique. So, the thought of these jewels hanging down and creating straps and cutouts, I was like, "Let's do it." Dress her in a typical black bustier evening gown. But then, use cutouts and jewels to bring out the drama that only she can deliver.
Almost everyone has been groomed by you. Who means the most to you?
Madonna. It's amazing how supportive pop stars are these days who have openly gay friends. But [at the time], that wasn't the case. Madonna really shines in this, especially with her documentary Truth or Dare . She made me feel seen before we even used the word.
When I was being persecuted for being different and gay growing up in a small town, I would say to myself, "One day I'm going to be friends with Madonna. They're going to see that." So she was my shield against I suffered physical and emotional hatred.
Putting clothes on her makes her feel like a child again. This is a very healing situation. I can't get over this. Even now, being friends with her, I can easily rekindle that emotion.
What's the biggest compliment or advice Madonna has ever given you?
We're both Leos, and she once pointed out to me, "Do you know how hard it is for you to ask for help?" And I was like, "Oh, no, no, no, no."
I didn't realize it. It never occurred to me to not want the person next to me on a plane to ask me to go to the bathroom. I don't want to ask for any kind of help. I would magically catapult past them and into the aisle. Like, "Oh, wow, you're right. I have a huge problem with this."
Do you have a favorite look or collection you’ve designed for Moschino?
I love all the collections. They are all small moments. But I keep coming back to my paper doll collection. It feels like a combination that is unique to me as an individual artist because it's all about contrast.
It's classic and beautiful, yet theoretically avant-garde. You don't usually get edgy just because you're pretty.
It's just white on the front and back - [because] paper dolls don't have backs, they have these labels. We started by having Gigi (Hadid) take out the full doll body, you can see the little underwear, and then we started dressing it up and building the model.
You and Gigi have worked together a lot.
I was one of the first designers to put [her] on the runway. She started her career in New York working with me and my own collection. Not only does she appear in most of my Moschino shows, she also appears in most of my advertising campaigns.
She is one of the most perfect and versatile models. She can portray and capture many different characters that I create. She's able to do this while still magically maintaining her identity. That's why she became a star. Much like [Lady] Gaga or Rihanna.
I love that you give people opportunities. Why do you think this is?
I don’t seek other people’s permission to be who I want to be. We all seek validation, it’s a human quality. But I found less. I have always been a rebel or a loser.
This interview has been edited and condensed for clarity.
