Retinol is one of the best-known, most-researched, and comprehensively dermatologist-recommended ingredients in skin care—it's essentially the premier multi-hyphen in aesthetics. Retinol has been shown to help fight acne, wrinkles, and dark spots while improving skin texture and stimulating collagen production, so there's a reason it has a legion of devoted fans.
But even as a household name, one function of the ingredient remains controversial: Is retinol an exfoliant? According to research, this active can increase cell turnover, which seems to mean it's an exfoliant. But, technically, this ingredient is actually classified as an antioxidant—just one that works very similarly to an exfoliant. Confused? Read on to see what experts have to say about how this skin-boosting ingredient works.
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Is retinol an exfoliant?
Dr. Azadeh Shirazi, a board-certified dermatologist at La Jolla Dermatology, explains that anti-aging beauty MVP is a vitamin A derivative and antioxidant. "Many people think retinols clear away dead skin cells because of the peeling and redness we see when we use them, but they're not really exfoliants," she tells Bustle. That said, they do achieve most of the effects of real exfoliants. “[They] renew our skin cells, protect our collagen by fighting free radicals, and stimulate new collagen and elastin, which plumps our deeper layers of skin (the dermis), thereby reducing fine lines, wrinkles and pores," she explains.
Dr. Adarsh Vijay Mudgil, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City, calls retinol a "pseudo-exfoliant" because its effects mimic the effects of actual exfoliating ingredients on the skin. "Retinol encourages your skin to turn over at a faster rate and produce healthier skin cells," he tells Bustle. "Proper exfoliants can actually remove dead skin cells from your skin." In other words: Retinols help regulate the shedding of dead skin cells, but they don't actually "break down the buttocks between dead skin cells." ” says Dr. Mona Gohara, MD, board-certified dermatologist. "It may have a similar effect, but it's not technically an [exfoliant]," she explains. "They use two different mechanisms to release skin cells."
What is an exfoliant?
Celebrity facialist Candace Marino explains that an exfoliator is a product or treatment that removes accumulated dead skin cells from the surface of the skin, allowing the natural "sloughing" process to occur more efficiently. They are divided into three categories: chemical, physical and enzymatic.
Chemical exfoliants include alpha-hydroxy acids and beta-hydroxy acids, such as the popular glycolic acid, lactic acid and salicylic acid, says Shirazi. Enzyme exfoliants usually come in the form of masks or peels, while physical exfoliants are anything that mechanically removes dead skin cells—think facial scrubs and skin scrubs.
Exfoliation is a key part of a healthy skin care routine because it encourages your complexion's natural dead skin cell sloughing process, which can slow down over time. "As we age, our skin cells become lazy and cell turnover slows down," says Shirazi. This allows dead cells to linger longer, ultimately exacerbating wrinkles and making your skin appear duller. Therefore, exfoliating properly ensures that dead skin is removed and a new, more radiant glow is revealed.
Should you use retinol?
Retinol has dozens of benefits that make it worthy of a spot in your skin care regimen, no matter your skin type. If this is your first time using this ingredient, be prepared to experience potential irritation (a process called "retinization"). "[Using retinol] speeds up cell turnover, so you get very dry skin, and it can be irritating," says Dr. Renée Moran, owner of Dr. Renée Moran Medical Aesthetics and founder of RM Skincare. So if you're just starting out and only using the lowest intensity once or twice a week, work your way up to it, Moran recommends. "Do this for about a month, and if your skin is fine, you can increase it to three times a week," she says. But be sure to monitor your skin - retinol is strong, and it's probably what your skin needs the most.
You can also use exfoliants and retinol together in your daily routine. Dr. Marisa Garshick, a board-certified dermatologist, previously told Bustle to use the two active products at different times of the day or on different days of the week to avoid skin irritation.
Buy Retinol Skin Care Products
Suitable for sensitive skin
AlphaRet Night Cream Skin Better Science
Both Marino and Shirazi recommend this overnight cream because it contains peptides, retinoic acid (the strongest and most stable molecule in the vitamin A family), and lactic and glycolic acids. It also contains soothing allantoin and green tea extract to counteract any potential irritation, making it a great choice for all skin types.
Create a hydrating glow
ROSE Ingleton MD Remodeling Retinol Boosting Serum Sephora
This gentle formula combines active ingredients with hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, squalane, and glycerin to give your skin the power of retinol while keeping it calm and hydrated.
smooth skin
Paula's Choice CLINICAL 1% Retinol Treatment Sephora
If you're looking for a serum that will plump and smooth your skin, get this serum from Paula's Choice. In addition to retinol, it uses multiple peptides to enhance skin tone and willow bark and licorice extracts to reduce redness.
Apply to TLC right now
Peace Out Retinol Eye PatchPeace Out Skin Care Products
Shirazi recommends the Peace Out Skin Care Eye Patch, which pairs retinol with bakuchiol, peptides, and antioxidant-rich astaxanthin, especially if you're looking for something simpler to use.
Budget friendly option
The Ordinary's Retinol Serum has a nearly five-star rating on Amazon thanks to its simple ingredients list, which also contains squalane and jojoba seed oil for long-lasting hydration.
Research references:
Mukherjee, S. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical Interventions in Aging. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2699641/
Rodin, K. (2016). Skin Care Bootcamp: The Changing Role of Skin Care. PRS Global Open. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5172479/
expert:
Dr. Azadeh Shirazi, MD, board-certified dermatologist at La Jolla Dermatology
Dr. Adarsh Vijay Mudgil, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City
Dr. Mona Gohara, MD, board-certified dermatologist
Candice Marino, celebrity facialist
Dr. Renée Moran, DO, Skin Care Specialist, Owner of Dr. Renée Moran Medical Aesthetics
Dr. Marisa Garshick, MD, board-certified dermatologist
