Sometime in my 30s, my hair had a mind of its own. No matter how much hairspray I use, or how much time and effort I put into curling my hair, it definitely gets softer after a few hours. I started to miss the days when my hair would be frizzy for days. In the end what happened? Why is my hair trying to destroy me? What can I do?
After talking to several hairstylists, I realized there was something wrong with my approach. Apparently, not only was I using my curling iron wrong, but I was also using all the wrong products to make my curls last. (The fact that I have very fine hair doesn’t help my career either.)
Thankfully, I finally learned some helpful pro styling tips — and my curls last for days now. If you're tired of having flat hair, heed the expert-backed wisdom below.
How to Curl Hair That Can't Keep Curls
1. Skip the silicones and parabens
Take a look at the ingredients in your shampoo, conditioner, and styling products and you're bound to find some form of silicone (hint: these preservatives often end in "methicone"). Silicones are found in many hair care products because they act as conditioning agents, enhance shine, and protect hair from the effects of heat and other harmful factors.
Unfortunately, this ingredient does all this by forming a film on your hair, which blocks moisture and other nutrients when you use it regularly, causing dryness and dullness, says celebrity hairstylist Genia Church said. Continuous use of silicone can also cause serious buildup over time. "Depending on your hair's texture and density, you can overload your hair with products or ingredients that coat it, such as silicones, which weigh down the curls and prevent movement and body movement," she says.
After scanning the labels on my hair care products, I was surprised to find that almost every product in my arsenal contains silicones. That is, except for my trusty Nutrafol Root Purifier Scalp Shampoo and Strand Defender Lightweight Strengthening Conditioner.
Products containing parabens should also be avoided in hair care, says Lauren Kunijo, co-owner of salon Kenna Kunijo in Charlotte, North Carolina. "Parabens are very heavy," she explains. "They loosen the shape of the curls and drag them down." When I cut back on products containing silicones and parabens, I found that my curls started to stay in place more easily.
Nutrafol Root Purifier Scalp Shampoo for Thin Hair Amazon
2. Create the right canvas
It’s also important to know which products and ingredients you “should” be using in your styling routine. Church likes to use OSiS+ Elastic Finish Flexible Hold Hairspray before curling her hair. To prep damp, fine hair before blow-drying, she uses OSiS+ GRIP Extreme Hold Mousse. To prep textured hair before drying, she uses Fiber Clinix Fortify Sealed Ends. "These products provide a great foundation for curl longevity and heat protection," she explains.
People with fine, silky hair often need to add a little grit to their hair to maintain waves and curls, which is where styling spray and hairspray come in. Raven Hurtado, a stylist at Maxine Salon in Chicago, recommends spraying Oribe thickly on dry roots to add density, lift and volume before spraying curls with Oribe. I've always thought that hairspray should only be used as a styling product, but Kristin Speakman, hairstylist and founder of Bella Red Salon in Washington, told me that applying hairspray before hairspray can be helpful. Curl for maximum hold.
“I also like to use Kérastase Laque Couture Medium Hold Hairspray before and after each strand when curling my hair,” adds Hurtado. "It's buildable and flexible. Spray it on your hair before curling to hold it in place, then spray it on again for a longer-lasting hold."
Schwarzkopf Osis+ Elastic Finish Flexible Hold Hairspray Amazon
3. Set the curling iron to the appropriate temperature
Most curling irons these days allow you to adjust the temperature—and for good reason: There's no one-size-fits-all setting. It all depends on your hair type and texture. Set the temperature too low and your curls are sure to fall far before anyone can appreciate your finished look. Set it too high and serious damage can occur.
According to Hurtado, 350 degrees is a safe choice for most people to get long-lasting curls without wreaking havoc on hair health. That said, Kunijo (whose clients include Olivia Culpo) recommends setting your curling iron to Slightly lower temperature. People with thick hair can turn the temperature a little higher.
Ocaliss Curling Iron Amazon
4. Use smaller sections when curling your hair
Especially when I'm in a hurry, I tend to grab a fairly large section of hair (about 2-3 inches) to wrap around my curling wand. Curling more strands at once may speed up the styling process, but I learned the hard way that it can also seriously shorten the life of your curls. As Speakman explains, using smaller curl sections allows all hair to get consistent heat exposure, so curl patterns can be created faster and more evenly. "Taking smaller sections will result in longer-lasting curls because the curls will also be tighter," adds Hurtado. Curling the 1-inch section will definitely take longer, but it's worth the extra time to keep it in place.
5. Start with the roots
When you curl your hair, do you clamp the ends and twist the roller up to the roots? Or curl downward from the root? According to professionals, you should follow the latter technique. "The hair at the ends requires minimal heat exposure compared to new hair at the roots," says Kunijo.
Think of it this way: The ends of your hair are the oldest part of your hair, and whether they've been heat styled, dyed, or chemically treated, they've seen the most time and are therefore very fragile. On the other hand, the parts of your hair closer to your scalp tend to be healthier. A super healthy hair shaft has a slippery outer layer, which is actually not conducive to maintaining any hairstyle. Therefore, the curling process must start from the top of the hair and work its way down.
6. Don’t forget to set curls
You might think that once you release the last section of hair, you're done - but not that fast. According to Church, styling your curls is actually the most important step for optimal longevity. "Hair forms when it's heated and sets when it's cooled, so if your curls are heated and fall out, they'll be set in an elongated shape," she explains.
As your curls cool, make sure they keep their shape by doing one of three things: Hold the curls in your hands and hold them there for a minute or so; pin the curls toward your scalp and hold them in place; or use a Velcro roller . Pro tip: "If you're in a hurry, I like to place a diffuser close to your head to provide cool air," Hurtado says.
Once your curls have cooled, Hurtado recommends separating them with your fingers or a wide-tooth comb, then adding a final drop of hairspray to lock in the style. Speakman's favorite styling product is Bumble and Bumble's Thickening Dry Spray Texturizing Spray because it provides hold, volume and texture for all hair types.
Bumble And Bumble Thickening Dry Spun Volume Texturizing Spray Sephora
7. Don’t touch curly hair right away
It's easy to run your fingers through your curls once you've styled them, but stylists strongly recommend sticking to a hands-off policy for at least 15 minutes, or until they're cool to the touch. Kunijo likens the cooling process to baking cookies: If you touch a cookie while it's still warm out of the oven, you'll ruin its shape.
"If you use your hands to loosen your curls before they've cooled, you've essentially wasted the work," says Kunijo. Speakman notes that even after your curls have cooled and styled, the less often you touch them the better—not only to prevent your curls from falling out, but also to minimize frizz.
Research references:
GAVAZZONI, Ms. DIAZ. (2015). Hair cosmetics: an overview. International Journal of Trichology. DOI: 10.4103/0974-7753.153450. Phone number: 25878443; PMCID: PMC4387693.
expert:
Genia Church, celebrity hairstylist
Lauren Kunijo, co-owner of Charlotte, North Carolina salon Kenna Kunijo
Raven Hurtado, stylist at Maxine Salon in Chicago
