Talking to Yotam Ottolenghi and Noor Murad on a sunny autumn morning is as enjoyable as it sounds. When the two joined our Zoom call, I immediately noticed that the Simple chef had been dressed up for the occasion, with a pink and red top that perfectly matched the cover art of the cookbook we're here to talk about , Shelf Love . But instead of getting started on his stellar fashion choices (that's a conversation for another time), we took a deep dive into all things cooking, snack foods, and, of course, chickpeas.
"Shelf Love" was born in Willy Wonka's gourmet food factory Ottolenghi Test Kitchen (OTK for short), and was co-created by Ottolenghi, an award-winning chef and author of multiple best-selling cookbooks, and Murad, a culinary school graduate. American and leader of the Ottolenghi team. This is the first in a new series of books from OTK, designed for passionate, busy home cooks who are looking for recipes that are rich in flavor but easy to follow.
"Shelf Love" marks a clear shift in Ottolenghi's style. Gone are the days of prescribed recipes and gosh, two-page ingredient lists. This book provides readers with a list of conventional ingredients, as well as a list of simple, tried and tested alternatives directly from OTK. No matter which one you choose, the recipe still guarantees Ottolenghi's signature vibrant colors and rich flavors. It was, he explained, "the modesty of setting off fireworks."
This is not an exaggeration. Some recipes have achieved huge Instagram fame despite their humble origins, the most famous of which is Tandoori Chickpea Confit. "It's 'grab a few cans of chickpeas, add spices, pop it in the oven,' and it becomes a truly amazing dish," Murad said.
"Shelf Love" was published in September, and it couldn't have come at a better time. As the cold, dark months approach, this new book is filled with clever twists on comfort dishes. Take the sweet and spicy mushroom rice pilaf, which Ottolenghi says is “the signature dish of the entire book.” This recipe combines all the delicious flavors of winter, including warm spices, earthy mushrooms, peppers, and plump apricots. Take it from me, you're going to want to do this over the next few months.
What other dishes, I ask, do Ottolenghi and Murad order when they need a pick-me-up? What is the definition of comfort food to them?
"When I think of comfort food, I think of the baked pasta we had as a kid," Ottolenghi said. "To this day, whenever I make a dish like this, I feel at home, like I'm creating a little bit of home wherever I am."
"Ottolenghi Test Kitchen: Shelf Love" Waterstones
For Murad, comfort food "is anything warm." She went on to explain: "I love soups, sauces and rice just like home. I'm from Bahrain and draw a lot of inspiration from Persian, Indian and Middle Eastern flavors, but thanks to my British mum I also eat spag bol Grew up with Shepherd Pie.”
Back to Shelf Love , though, I asked two chefs what the inspiration was behind a store-cupboard-led recipe book. Not surprisingly, the answer has to do with lockdown.
“For many of us, for the first time, access to ingredients was a challenge and we had to think creatively and adapt,” Ottolegi said.
With the OTK team spread out around the world during lockdown, they've found comfort in cooking together virtually and connecting with their Instagram community. “People were making our recipes and asking about alternative ingredients, and we realized we had to make them more flexible,” Murad said. “We want people to feel confident making their own swaps, and we realize this gives people ownership of the recipes.”
However, content initially posted on Instagram quickly moved to Youtube, and the OTK team now regularly posts content on their own dedicated channel.
2022 is quickly approaching and the OTK team shows no signs of slowing down. Shelf Love will be followed next year by Stock It Up , a book dedicated to reinventing familiar dishes and creating cupboard, fridge and freezer staples to help you succeed in the kitchen. I can't wait to see the matching shirt.
