Retinol may have more research-backed skin-improving benefits than any other beauty ingredient on the shelf. It fights acne and is an anti-aging superhero that increases cell turnover, improves texture, and boosts collagen production. But does retinol help with dark spots, too?
According to dermatologists, treating dark spots is another function of this highly regarded skin care ingredient. By the way, dark spots (also called hyperpigmentation) are really common and can occur for a variety of reasons, from sun damage to acne scars. "Inflammation damages skin cells and releases pigment deep into the skin, outside the cells," said Dr. Corey L. Hartman, MD, founder of Skin Health Dermatology in Birmingham, Alabama. Dark spots appear. "Skin conditions such as sunspots, melasma, and scarring from acne, eczema, and seborrheic dermatitis can lead to hyperpigmentation once healed.
This star ingredient’s dark spot-healing benefits are all due to its effect on the natural skin cell renewal process. "Retinol increases cell turnover, allowing skin cells to circulate more efficiently," says Hartman. He explains that they also inhibit the production of tyrosinase, the enzyme that causes dark spots to form. In other words, retinol acts as an exfoliant, removing dead skin cells while speeding up the production of new ones, resulting in a more even skin tone.
Retinol also stimulates collagen production, which is another way to reduce dark spots. "Collagen helps promote skin cell turnover, which helps peel and fade dark spots," says Dr. Stacy Chimento, a board-certified dermatologist in Miami, Florida. When your collagen production is high, your skin's elasticity, radiance and overall complexion will improve, she says. Read on to learn how to use this ingredient in your skincare routine, as well as the expert-backed retinol products worth stocking up on.
How to use retinol to remove dark spots
All skin types and skin tones can use retinol to combat hyperpigmentation. "Retinol has the same effect on dark spots and discoloration on all skin types," Hartman tells Bustle. In fact, darker skin tones may notice the benefits more clearly: "Inflammatory conditions have a more profound impact on skin tone, and retinol can also help control acne, the leading cause of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation," He said. However, one thing to note for darker skin tones is that adding more brightening ingredients and retinol to your skin care regimen may be more effective. Hartman recommends using tranexamic acid or cysteamine to get the job done.
If this is your first time trying retinol, don't use it every day right away. Chimento recommends starting with using it once or twice a week in the evening. "See how your skin responds, and then you can work out three times a week," she says. And be sure to use this ingredient in your nighttime regimen: "Sunlight breaks down retinol, making it less effective," she says. When you use a retinol serum or cream, remember that less is more. "Typically, a pea-sized amount of product is enough to apply to the entire face," says Hartman.
You can also start with a lower concentration of retinol so your skin can adjust to the ingredient. "High concentrations of retinol can increase the chance of irritation, dryness, and redness," says Chimento, who recommends looking for products with 0.25 percent retinol. That said, if you don't have sensitive skin, Hartman says 1% retinol "will be more effective at controlling and managing hyperpigmentation."
Is it still important? be patient. Retinol takes some time to show its effects on skin—it takes an average of four to six weeks to see results, Hartman says.
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Retinol helps fade dark spots
Pharmacy options
New to retinol? Chimento says this Neutrogena serum (which you can buy at drugstores, by the way) is perfect for beginners. "It helps treat dark spots and moisturizes and smoothes the skin," she says. Plus, it's a retinol oil—a luminous way to get a dose of the ingredient.
Anti-aging and anti-freckle combo
Drunk Elephant A-Passioni Retinol Face Cream Sephora
Hartman is a fan of popular brand Drunk Elephant's retinol cream because of its powerful trio of retinol, peptides and linoleic acid. "It's an innovative [formula]," he says, nodding to three anti-aging MVPs that work to smooth, even-toned skin in one fell swoop.
skin lightener
Shani Darden Skin Care Retinol Revolution Sephora
Celebrity facialist Shani Darden launches a powerful retinol serum that exfoliates, fights dark spots and improves overall skin tone. It contains lactic acid (an alpha-hydroxy acid that promotes exfoliation along with retinol) and apple fruit extract to give your complexion a dose of antioxidants to improve overall health.
Skin Repair Hero
Skinceuticals Retinol 0.5Dermstore
Dramatically boost collagen production with this transformative retinol cream. Chimento likes this formula because it boosts collagen levels and "reduces the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and age spots," she says.
Research references:
Brungo-Ransby, S. (1993). Topical retinoids (retinoic acid) treat hyperpigmented lesions caused by skin inflammation in black patients. New England Journal of Medicine. https://www.nejm.org/doi/full/10.1056/nejm199305203282002
Ibrahimi, B. (2014). Topical tranexamic acid is a promising treatment for melasma. Journal of Medical Research. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4235096/
Caffey, R. (2007). Improve naturally aging skin with vitamin A (retinol). Arch Dermatol. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/17515510/
Mukherjee, S. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical interventions in aging. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2699641/
Ottone, JP. (2006). Retinoid treatment of pigmentary disorders. Dermatotherapy. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/17014483/
Vahi, N. (2013). Facial Hyperpigmentation: Causes and Treatment. British Journal of Dermatology. https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1111/bjd.12536
Zasada, M. (2019). Retinoids: active molecules that influence the formation of skin structure in cosmetic and dermatological treatments. Advances in Dermatology and Allergology. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6791161/
expert:
Dr. Corey L. Hartman, MD, board-certified dermatologist, founder of Skin Wellness Dermatology in Birmingham, AL
Dr. Stacy Chimento, MD, board-certified dermatologist in Miami, FL
