You'd never guess it—our collective demand for longer, thicker lashes is booming. While alternatives to fake thicker lashes, like extensions or false lashes, will always have a place in your makeup repertoire, an emerging line of growth serums are making natural-looking Bambi-level lashes more feasible. Even if you haven't wandered the aisles of your local beauty store lately, the numbers don't lie. The eyelash serum market was valued at $752.1 million in 2020 and is expected to reach $1.3 billion by 2031, proving that despite the revolving door of makeup trends taking over the TikTok algorithm, thick, flowing lashes are never going away. style.
The growth serum craze started in 2008, when Latisse became the first FDA-approved topical treatment for hypotrichosis, also known as a lack of eyelash density, to produce thicker, longer and deeper lashes. Since then, the category has exploded with more accessible over-the-counter products, especially in the past few years as beauty shoppers look for more natural alternatives to makeup and labor-intensive products like false eyelashes Taste.
"I got married [last] fall and I knew I didn't want to wear false eyelashes that day," says beauty writer and consultant Katie Becker, "so I decided to start testing Obagi Nu-Cil Lash Enhancing Serum to see how far I could go. You can get it." Others turn to growth serums to repair years of damage from more invasive treatments, such as eyelash lifts or extensions. Faith Xu, executive beauty director at BDG, said: “I had been doing eyelash extensions for years and when I finally stopped, my eyelashes were broken and almost non-existent. It was horrible. That’s when I started trying eyelash serums liquid."
But while Latisse and its generic competitors have gained huge traction over the past 15 years, they've also become poster children for the potential risks of using eyelash serums. Read on to dive into the world of eyelash growth serums, explore whether they're safe, and whether they're worth your money.
Are eyelash serums safe?
As optometrist Inna Lazar, OD, says, prescription eyelash serums rely on common active ingredients like prostaglandins like bimatoprost and isopropyl cloprostate. "While prostaglandins are effective in stimulating eyelash growth, they may cause side effects such as eye redness, itching, darkening of the iris and eyelids, and loss of fat around the eyes," she says. Still, Latis's impressive clinical results remain indisputable. "To gain FDA approval for Latisse, they tested the product in a 16-week clinical trial, during which they found that 78% of patients had more prominent eyelashes after nighttime use. These patients also found that their eyelashes were 106% fuller and 25% longer than those who did not use the product."
According to online healthcare marketplace RealSelf, 69% of users would recommend Latisse, with fans saying it can quickly lengthen lashes and increase lash density, while detractors say the price of about $145 a month isn't worth it for the results. . However, to date, this remains the only FDA-approved option for eyelash growth problems.
When it comes to over-the-counter products, cosmetic chemist and BeautyStat founder Ron Robinson is somewhat cautious about their effectiveness, especially compared to prescription formulas. "I don't know if there are any over-the-counter options that can match the results you get with [prescription] treatments, but I think the options are getting better," he said. “Many contain ingredients like biotin, plant extracts, amino acids, collagen, and ceramides,” all of which are backed by extensive research to help promote hair growth and strengthen the hair fiber. However, if your new eyelash serum is formulated with some of these ingredients, it doesn't necessarily mean you'll see thicker, longer lashes when the tube is empty. "Consumers should look for products that have undergone independent clinical and/or consumer testing to ensure their claims are verified," Robinson said.
In terms of safety, Lazar explained that many popular over-the-counter ingredients, such as peptides, vitamins and plant extracts, carry a relatively low risk of eye irritation or side effects. But reading labels on newly purchased products is still crucial to keeping your eyes safe and healthy. "Chemical irritants and preservatives, such as parabens, formaldehyde, phenoxyethanol, and fragrances, can occasionally be found in over-the-counter eyelash serums," says Lazar. "They may cause allergic reactions or ocular surface irritation in some people." Plus, when you're spending an average of $50 to $150 on a product that doesn't have FDA approval to back up its claims, you want to make sure you're going to see some real results . Fortunately, some brands continue to invest in clinical testing to ensure the safety and effectiveness of products so close to your heart.
"Olaplex Lashbond Building Serum targets five of consumers' top eyelash concerns: length, volume and density, shedding and shedding, dry and brittle lashes, and lack of natural lift and curl," said Lavinia Popescu, chief scientist at OLAPLEX. She added, After the brand conducted third-party consumer perception research (as well as ophthalmologist-led safety testing), participants reported seeing longer, thicker lashes within four weeks. At the end of the 12-week consumer perception study, 97% reported an improvement in the appearance of longer lashes and 100% reported an improvement in the appearance of thicker lashes, all without the need for a trip to the doctor for a prescription product.
Still, the many newcomers to the eyelash serum space like Olaplex, Vegamour, Augustinus Bader, The Ordinary, and others will inevitably face stiff competition from established brands with years of customer loyalty.
"I used to only use GrandeLash MD Lash Strengthening Serum," Xue said. "In my opinion, this is still the best - I swear I saw results after just two weeks. Part of it may be my lashes' natural growth cycle, but I noticed a noticeable difference in length."
Becker adds, "Obagi serum starts showing results after a month of use, but it takes at least three months for others to notice. The entire eyelash growth cycle takes about four months, so you have to be patient. Mine The lashes are definitely longer and thicker, and there are fewer lashes falling out, but the thickness isn’t really the length and [increased] number of hairs.” She stopped using the serum because of the prostaglandins and hormones. Adjacent, the difference in her lashes was noticeable after just one month. "My eyelashes are falling out very significantly and my eyelashes are thinner than before."
While plenty of first-person testimonials and rave reviews from shoppers suggest there are more options and increasingly effective (and safer) eyelash serum formulas, there are a few words of warning for people taking care of their eyes. "To safely use eyelash serums to promote eye health and lash health, it's important to realize that eyelash health starts from within," says Lazar. "This involves maintaining healthy eyelids and oil glands, which play a key role in supporting eyelash growth." She recommends a diet rich in omega-3s, such as salmon, anchovies, nuts and vegetable oils, to nourish eyelashes from the inside out.
While it's tempting to use your favorite product for months on end, especially when your lashes start to look like a cross between RuPaul and a cartoon deer, there are so many benefits to eyelash serum. "When using these products, especially those containing prostaglandins, it is recommended to take a break of three to six months between treatments to minimize potential side effects and maintain the overall health of your eyes and eyelashes," says Lazar. Because, after using a serum, your lashes may look fuller and sexy, keeping your eyes healthy is always a beauty priority.
The best eyelash serum
Grande Cosmetics GrandeLASH - MD Lash Enhancing Serum Sephora
Xue Fei's go-to formula for years, this best-selling product has millions of fans around the world.
With solid clinical data and impressive before-and-after photos, it's no wonder this serum has been a long-time favorite among beauty editors.
This eyelash-enhancing serum is one of the newer growth serums that have hit the market in the past few years, and works to maintain and grow lashes in just days.
Kosas GrowPotion Fluffy Brows + Eyelash Growth Serum Sephora
For a double dose of eyelash and brow growth, this formula utilizes vegan keratin and peptides to condition and strengthen hair.
Augustinus Bader Eyebrow & Lash Enhancing Serum Sephora
By focusing on better hair follicle health, this eyelash and brow serum produces thicker, healthier lashes within the first four weeks of use.
Keep stock of this industry-standard formula to slow lash aging and prevent hair breakage.
R+F Lash BoostRodan+Fields
Just like a lash deep conditioner, this serum will give you darker, longer, longer lashes (clinically proven).
If short, brittle lashes are frustrating you, try adding this peptide-rich serum to your routine.
This serum has wowed consumers for the past 70 years by increasing eyelash curl, length and pigmentation.
Vegamour GRO Volumizing Lash Serum Sephora
Now formulated specifically for your lashes, this beloved hair-growing serum contains botanical active ingredients that revitalize the roots for thicker, longer lashes.
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expert:
Inna Lazar, OD, an optometrist in Greenwich, CT
Dr. Toyin Falola, MD, Board Certified Dermatologist, Senior Director of Product Strategy, RO
Ron Robinson, cosmetic chemist and founder of BeautyStat
