In the past, vitamin C was often associated with foods and beverages such as Tang (#TBT), oranges, and Sunny D. Recently, however, this antioxidant powerhouse has become a mainstay and star ingredient in beauty products. Serums, Creams and Masks. However, when you read the product labels for these products, you may be wondering, "What does vitamin C do for your skin?"
This active vitamin is so ubiquitous because it's a skin-boosting multi-tasker with a variety of benefits. First of all, it's a potent antioxidant, so it's protective, but it also has anti-aging benefits, evens skin tone, etc., and is something that countless dermatologists recommend people use in their daily beauty regimen. Keep scrolling to learn more about why vitamin C is so great and how you can incorporate it into your daily life.
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What is Vitamin C?
Vitamin C is one of the most common antioxidants found in beauty formulas, and for good reason. Research continues to show that it has many benefits for the skin when used topically. But when you look closely at product labels, you'll find that there isn't just one type of vitamin C used in skin care.
The two main derivatives are L-ascorbic acid and tetrahexyldecyl (THD) ascorbic acid, according to Dr. Dhaval Bhanusali, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City. The former is the most researched and purest form of vitamin C, but it also has its drawbacks. "Concentration and formulation both affect its effectiveness because L-ascorbic acid is very unstable," says Dr. Jenny Liu, a Minneapolis dermatologist and assistant professor at the University of Minnesota. "That's why it often contains vitamin E and ferulic acid." (See: The cult-favorite Skinceuticals CE Ferulic Essence.) It also needs to be stored in a dark bottle, Bhanusali adds, because it oxidizes quickly .
Bhanusali said that currently, more and more beauty brands are beginning to use THD ascorbic acid. "It's more suitable for sensitive skin and is considered more stable," he explains. Unlike L-ascorbic acid, it's also fat-soluble, which means it can be formulated in a creamier formula that's more suitable for all skin types, Liu says.
In addition to these two main forms of vitamin C, you may also find methylated ascorbic acid (3-o-ethyl ascorbate) or ascorbyl glucoside. "These are sugar derivatives, which are more stable but lack anti-aging evidence," Liu said, but noted that they may help improve uneven skin tone.
What does vitamin C do for the skin?
1. Enhance UV protection
Without sun protection, vitamin C can make your skin more susceptible to sun damage, but the ingredient actually works synergistically with sunscreen. "When used during the day with broad-spectrum sunscreen, vitamin C has been shown to strengthen the skin's defenses against damage caused by UV rays," says Tiffany Masterson, founder of beauty brand Drunk Elephant.
2. Stimulate collagen production
Since vitamin C is required for collagen production and skin repair, it's also an effective anti-aging treatment that improves firmness. Essentially, vitamin C does two collagen-related things: It helps stimulate collagen production, and it also prevents existing collagen from being broken down, making it a win-win beauty regimen.
3. It protects your skin from damage
Since vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant, it's great for protecting your skin. "It helps fight free radicals that can damage the skin," explains Bhanusali. Dr. Alexis Stephens, dermatologist and consultant for skin care brand Naturium, explains that free radicals from external factors like the sun and environmental stress can wreak havoc on skin tone and accelerate signs of aging.
4. Improve hyperpigmentation
You'll inevitably find vitamin C popping up in a range of dark spot correction products, and that's because it's a fan-favorite, research-backed tool when it comes to fighting hyperpigmentation and improving skin brightness. Stephens explains that it works by inhibiting the enzyme tyrosinase, which is necessary for the production of skin pigment, or melanin. With regular use, you'll notice a more even skin tone. "It can help eliminate dark spots to purify and brighten your skin," says Dr. Shirley Chi, a board-certified dermatologist in California.
5. It calms inflammation
The benefits continue—vitamin C can also relieve skin inflammation. It works by preventing certain pro-inflammatory cells, called cytokines, from being activated. translate? It can be very useful if you are treating acne or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Talk about a multitasker.
Is vitamin C safe for all skin types?
Vitamin C is generally suitable for all skin types, with some exceptions. Who should avoid it? Those who are "extremely sensitive," Chi said. You should also avoid this ingredient if your skin is compromised—Chi points to conditions like eczema flare-ups or skin that has recently undergone surgery (think chemical peels or laser treatments). "In this case, it may burn when used," she explained. It can also further exacerbate irritation or inflammation. Beyond that, she's a fan: "It should be part of everyone's anti-aging routine," Chi tells Bustle.
How to use vitamin C in your skin care routine
Since vitamin C is related to your SPF, most dermatologists recommend using it in the morning. "I like to use an antioxidant serum under my SPF every morning to enhance the protection of my sunscreen," says Liu. Mornings are also best, Stephens adds, because you face the vast majority of environmental stressors during the day.
You can find vitamin C in moisturizers and masks, but you'll get the most effective form in serums, since they tend to have more concentrated formulas. No matter which type of product you choose, Bhanusali recommends carefully checking ingredient labels and packaging. You want a bottle that is dark or has a metallic lining. "Look for a container that blocks sunlight," Chi says. "This is necessary because vitamin C is very unstable in sunlight." If stored improperly and exposed to sunlight or air, it will oxidize and decompose, thereby reducing its efficacy.
It's also important to note that vitamin C isn't one of those beauty ingredients that will give you immediate satisfaction - it may take a while before you start seeing results. "Vitamin C, like retinol, is a long-term relationship and its benefits take time to show up on the skin," Chi tells Bustle. But patience and persistence can yield amazing results.
Buy skin care products with added vitamin C
Extra brightening of skin tone
Super clear super skin
In addition to vitamin C, this powerful serum contains licorice root, turmeric, and kojic acid, three ingredients that help brighten your complexion.
Used to combat hyperpigmentation
C's The Day SerumGood (Skin) Day
The formula contains 10% ascorbic acid, niacinamide, licorice root, and camu camu camu, another antioxidant-rich extract that helps even out skin tone and fight dark spots.
Mild formula
While it relies on the powerful L-ascorbic acid form of vitamin C, this serum counteracts any side effects with hydrating glycerin and aloe vera. Additionally, the fruit extracts in the formula – papaya, pineapple and mango – enhance its skin-whitening abilities.
Promote skin health
Melanie Simon Skin Care Essence C Purple Gray
This vitamin C elixir has a simple formula that allows the antioxidants to really work, and is easy to layer with other serums.
Improve gloss
Buttah Skin Vitamin C Serum Ulta
Buttah Skin's Brightening Serum pairs the formula's ascorbic acid with ferulic acid to make it more stable, and provides extra antioxidant protection with green tea, grape seed, and chamomile extracts.
Add water
OLEHENRIKSEN Truth Serum Vitamin C Sephora
If you have dry skin, this product is a true multi-tasker: in addition to a stabilized Vitamin C complex, it uses aloe vera juice and glycerin to infuse your skin with moisture.
study:
Dahl, D. (1996). Effectiveness of antioxidants (vitamins C and E) as topical photoprotectants with and without sunscreen. Journal of Dermatology and Venereology. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/8869680/
De Domel, R. (2019). Vitamin C prevents UV-induced pigmentation in healthy volunteers. Journal of Clinical and Cosmetic Dermatology. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6415704/
DeFilippo, N. (2018). Efficacy of vitamin C supplementation on collagen synthesis and oxidative stress after musculoskeletal injury: a systematic review. Orthopedic Journal of Sports Medicine. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6204628/
Poljšak, K. B, and Dahmane, R. (2012). Free radicals and exogenous skin aging. Dermatology Research and Practice. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3299230/
Pullar, J. (2017). The role of vitamin C in skin health. Nutrients. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5579659/
Sharma, M. (1993). Interaction of vitamin C and vitamin E during plasma free radical stress: an ESR study. Free Radical Biology and Medicine. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/8392021/
Shedd, M. (2019). The role of vitamin C in the attenuation of photosensitivity to antimicrobial quinolones. Science Roadmap Publishing. https://www.researchgate.net/publication/334679989_The_Role_of_Vitamin_C_in_Photosensitivity_Attenuation_of_Antimicrobial_Quinolones_Group
Trang, P. (2013). Vitamin C in dermatology. Indian Dermatol Online Magazine. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3673383/
Zolghadri, S. et al. (2018). A comprehensive review of tyrosinase inhibitors. Journal of Enzyme Inhibition and Medicinal Chemistry. https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/14756366.2018.1545767
expert:
Dr. Jenny Liu, MD, board-certified dermatologist from Minneapolis, Minnesota
Dr. Alexis Stephens, DO, FAOCD, FAAD, dermatologist and Naturium Dermatology Consultant
Dr. Dhaval G. Bhanusali , MD , New York Board Certified Dermatologist
Dr. Shirley Chi , MD, California Board Certified Dermatologist
Drunk Elephant founder Tiffany Masterson
