While scrolling through Instagram and TikTok, you might stumble upon a mesmerizing manicure tutorial that involves dipping your fingers in a mysterious colored powder. These are dip powder manicures that are long-lasting, quick-drying, highly pigmented and totally ASMR compliant.
The process essentially consists of a base coat, an acrylic powder in the color of your choice, a sealer or activator, and a top coat, and can be done in a salon or at home. They differ from gel and acrylic manicures in that they last longer—usually more than three weeks—and don't require any downtime under a UV lamp. Moreover, they are more durable. "Dipping powder is stronger than gel, so natural nails won't break as easily as using soaking gel," celebrity manicurist Elena Ogawa tells Bustle.
While hand powders have been around for quite some time—salon brand SNS launched their compact brand in the '90s—at-home powder kits are making a comeback. This craze shows no signs of stopping: OPI predicts dip powder manicures will be one of the biggest manicure trends of 2021. "(Dip powder manicures) are easier for non-professionals," says Honey, a nail expert who works with brands like Tom Ford and Shiseido.
If you'd like to try the magic of dip powder from the comfort of your own home, start by considering the following tips from some of the nail industry's top experts.
1. Prep your nails
First things first: clean, polish and file. You want the adhesive to stick to your natural nails, so it's important to remove any oil or residue from the nail bed. Think of it as starting with a blank slate. If you want your nails to look longer, push your cuticles back. Oh, and pro tip: do one hand at a time. "Do the nails on the other hand afterward because if you do all 10 nails at the same time, it's going to be a mess," Ogawa says.
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The process varies between kits (and from salon to salon), but in most cases you'll start by applying a base coat to each nail, which is usually made from a gel-like ingredient called cyanoacrylate. Cheng, explains Darlene Sritapan, OPI’s North America education and competency manager. "Precise application is required," she added. Apply with thin, outward strokes, avoiding the cuticle area. Next, while the nails are still wet, dip each nail into the colored powder until completely coated. Tap gently to remove excess powder. Repeat this process until you are happy with the color; usually two times is enough. Then, apply an activator or sealer to the nail. “This will dry everything out,” Honey said. In about five minutes or so (drying time will vary depending on your kit), apply one or two coats of topcoat. "Always check the length and shape before applying," Ogawa adds.
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Sritapan warns to avoid sanding your nails too hard or trying to peel off the stain with a sharp nail file to avoid serious damage to your nails or the development of "green leaves" (aka bacteria that can lead to infection). "There's no way to heal green leaves or nail damage other than waiting more than three months for the nail to grow back." Instead, Ogawa says, start by trimming your nails as short as needed, then file the surface with as thin a file as possible. "This process makes it easier to absorb." Next, soak a cotton pad in pure acetone, gently wrap it around the nail, and then cover it with foil or the plastic removal clips that may have come with the kit. Dear advice, consider putting your nails under a mini steamer while soaking them as pure acetone can be uncomfortable. Then wait 15 to 20 minutes before taking everything out. Any remaining residue can be removed with a cuticle pusher or nail file.
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